Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Materials List

3 eyehooks, 1 ½” long

2 Hex screws 4 inches long, ¼” wide

25 inches balsawood block, 1” by 1”

6 inches of plastic sheeting, ½” thick and 1” wide

2 Paint brushes, 1” wide

1/4” drill bit

1/16” drill bit

1/8” drill bit

2’ metal rod, 1/8” thick

4 metal washers, ¼” opening, 1” wide

2 hex nuts for ¼” screw

3” rubber grip ¼” thick

½” by 12” by 6” polycarbonate sheeting

Friday, December 14, 2007

Plan of Procedures

Plan of Procedures


1. Cut a polycarbonate sheet 1/2” thick into four pieces 12” by 1” by ½”.

2. Take the four pieces and cut triangles of ½” by 2” off the edge that match up to each other.



3. Glue two pieces together so that the triangular cuts line up.

4. Repeat step 3 for the remaining two pieces, this will be the main arms measuring approximately 12” by 1” by 1” with the triangular cut taken out.




5. Place arms next to each other so that the triangular cuts are on the inside. Make a mark 4” from the back edge centered 1/2” for each side on each arm.

6. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole vertically through the marks on each arm.


7. Drill a ¼” hole vertically through the 1/8” pilot holes previously drilled.

8. Using sandpaper level the inside of the triangular cuts so that the top and bottom section are even.


9. Cut a polycarbonate sheet 1/2” thick into a 1” by 6” section, which will become the top mounting block.

10. Drill 1/4” holes through the top mounting blocks centered ½” from the 1” edges.

11. Sand all rough edges off the plastic block and run sandpaper through the drilled holes to remove any rough edges.


12. Drill two ¼” holes through the front PVC edge of the Rov frame, centered 5 inches from the middle of the PVC tube. Care must be taken to assure the holes line up exactly with the top mounting block and that both the top and bottom hole are completely vertical. The top mounting block may be used as a guide to mark the holes.

13. Insert two eye hooks into the Rov arms, one on each, centered on the inward facing sides ½” from the back edge.


14. Drill a pilot hole 1/16” wide through the center of the back plunger of the hydraulic syringe.

15. Carefully insert a third eyehook into this hole, applying a small amount of thread sealant onto the threads.


16. Mark the center line of the top mounting block 3 inches from each side. The mark should extend the entire 1 inch length of the mounting block and should be placed on the bottom side.




17. Using sandpaper, sand down the area ½” to either side of this line in an arched shape, so that the deepest point is where the mark previously was. The hydraulic syringe should fit into this cavity.

18. Insert two 4”hex screw ¼” wide through the top mounting block, insert two washers below the mounting block. Thread the Polycarbonate arms onto the screws, applying a small amount of Dow 33 grease. Place two more washers below the arm.


19. Temporarily thread two matching hex nuts onto exposed screws to secure the assembly.

20. Slide the hydraulic syringe into place and adjust to a position so that the arms may close fully with a minimum of 1 and ½” clearance between the tip of the syringe and the closest closed part of the arm. The syringe should not extend farther forward then the point where the last nonmoving section of the syringe lines up with the back edge of the mounting block.


21. Mark the points on the cylinder which will show what point will rest directly under the top mounting block.

22. Using a fine sandpaper go over this section to create a slight texture.


23. Place the hydraulic syringe into the previously marked location.

24. Measure the distance between the eyehook on the syringe and the eyehooks on the arm when the syringe is fully empty and the arms are opened at about 15 degrees past parallel. The distance should be the same on both sides.




25.Cut two metal rods of approximately 1/8” thickness into lengths of the previous measurement plus 1 and ½”.

26. Place a metal rod into a clamp and bend the last ¾” upwards at a 90 degree angle. Both sides should be pointing in the same direction.


27. Repeat step 26 for a second rod.

28. Check to make sure both pieces still have the same length, that of the previous measurement.


29. Remove the hydraulic syringe, making sure the marks are still present.

30. Thread one metal rod into the eyehook on the hydraulic syringe and using pliers bend it back towards the center of the metal rod. Use caution so that no more than the ¾” extra is used to make the loop. The loop should close in onto itself so that the metal rod will not unattach itself from the hook.


31. Repeat step 30 for the second metal rod.

32. Place the hydraulic syringe back into its marked location and epoxy in place. Allow to dry.


33. Thread the loose end of a metal rod into one of the eyehooks on the polycarbonate arms. Repeat the process used in step 30 to secure it in place.

34. Repeat step 33 for the second metal rod.


35. Test the movement of the polycarbonate arms and make any adjustments necessary.

36. Cut a 3 foot section of hydraulic line and insert a connector onto one end. The connector must be able to secure the other section of hydraulic line which will run through the tether.


37. Tighten a metal hose clamp around the space where the hose overlaps the connector.

38. Fill the hydraulic syringe with the hydraulic fluid until the arms are fully closed.

39. Thread a second metal hose clamp onto the hydraulic line so that it may be used later, do not tighten.


40. Place the open end of the hydraulic line onto the tip of the hydraulic tip and secure with the metal hose clamp.

41. Open the polycarbonate arms and close the syringe so that the hydraulic fluid is pushed through the hydraulic line. Hold the opposite end of the hydraulic line elevated above the syringe and work all the air out of the system. Using a plug, close the still open end of the hydraulic line.


42. Fill a 2 oz syringe fully with hydraulic fluid.

43. Connect the 2 oz syringe to a piece of hydraulic line approximately 35 feet long. This line will be placed inside the 30 foot tether. 1 foot of tubing will extend past the tether on the Rov end and 4 feet will extend past the tether on the control box end.


44. Slowly close the syringe so that the tube fills with hydraulic fluid. The end of the tubing must be elevated above the syringe. Carefully remove all air from the system. If there is not enough fluid to fill the line, clamp the line near both ends and refill the syringe with fluid. Continue this process until the line is completely filled with hydraulic fluid, void of air bubbles, and there is a minimum of 1 oz of fluid left in the syringe.

45. Using a metal hose clamp secure the tube to the 2 oz syringe.


46. Thread the hydraulic line through the tether.

47. Once the tether has been permanently connected to the Rov, remove the plug on the 3 ft section of tubing with the connector attached. Thread a metal hose clamp onto the hydraulic line that is built into the tether.


48. Attach the tether line to that of the one on the Rov by using the connector. Slide into place and attach with a metal hose clamp.

49. Test the movement of the arm by closing the 2 oz syringe and opening the 2 oz syringe. This should fully open and close the arm. The 2 oz syringe will not need to fully fill and empty, but only move a few centimeters.

Monday, December 3, 2007

Final Solution Exploded View


Parts list, Item, Description, QTY, Size, Remarks

1-Polycarbonate Arm, 2, 12” x 1” x 1”,Made for left and right

2-Hydraulic Syringe, 1, 1 oz, Used on Rov arm

3- Plastic Mounting Block, 1, 6” x 1” x ½”

4-Stainless Steel Hex Screw, 2, 4”x ¼”, Runs vertically through arm

5-Stainless Steel Hex nut, 2, ¼”

6-Stainless Steel Washers, 4, ¼” I.D. , 1”O.D., Placed above and below arms

7-Rubber Grips, 2, 2”, Glued to end of arms